Busy Days…
This is such a good itinerary for cruising. The port days' alternate with sea days so we get a chance to catch our breath between adventures. Yesterday was a sea day but we spent it going through the new Panamax canal. Eleven hours of commentary as we slowly made our way through the two sets of locks and Gatun Lake in the middle. It was very interesting to hear the history of digging the canal, first French a couple of tries then the US. They were plagued by mudslides, disease, workers dying from both and engineering problems. Once they figured out how to really accomplish the task using locks and a cure for malaria and dysentery, they were able to move ahead and open the canal in 1914. What an amazing feat it was. The USA had a huge presence in Panama until they handed the zone back to Panama in about 2008. All monies and buildings now belong to the country.
Prior to our passage we anchored in Punta Amador and were tendered into Panama for tours. Panama City is full of skyscrapers and looks amazing from the sea. The tender took us to a marina on Flamenco island which was created from spoil soil from the canal. It is connected to the mainland with a long causeway park.
Our adventure for the day was to visit the Embera Indian village in a preserve about an hour from the city. We drove in a nice bus, no toilet thought, through the outlying areas. It looked like a typical poor island with the added attraction of piles of garbage at the roadsides due to some work stoppage. It was sad to see the porches swept clean and women trying to maintain things with all the trash around the area. Life must be hard for those outside the city.
Arriving at the landing site, we made our way down the steep river bank to waiting dugout canoes. No real steps or rails, just mud, rocks and some wood posts in the ground. It was very difficult going for those who had knee issues, and one man with a big brace on his leg. We were told that dexterity was needed to do this tour, maybe they didn't read the small print! Nice native men helped us as we got to the bottom and stepped into the canoe. We balanced as we walked to the seats.
Thankfully no paddling was required as the small outboard motor propelled the canoes up the river to another landing point. We passed other villages along the way, they alternate visiting each one to spread out the income from tourism. These people came from the border between Panama and Costa Rica area but were voluntarily moved to the park to help with income while maintaining their way of life to some extent. Most of their land everywhere was made preserves and they can no longer hunt and raise vegetables to exist. Their needs are simple but now they rely on tourism.
At the landing point we again scuttle up the rough terrain. And yes, it is HOT & HUMID! Uck. The village is small with thatched huts made very large to accommodate the visitors. There is one for the market, one for dancing and two that are raised for cooking and eating. I was happy to find the "latrine" is a real lavatory though I don't know how it worked with no running water!!!
The people wear very simple clothing, just loincloth wraps for the men and the women added bras made of beads when visitors are there. They demonstrated their dances for us and described how the baskets were made. I hadn't planned to dance but the tiniest little boy softly touched my hand and asked me to come. George was asked too but I didn't even see him in the crowd. So no photos of us dancing Embera style. Lucky for me it was a simple step!
After that we were handed a folded palm leaf holding a small bit of fresh fried tilapia and fried plantain. With the fresh pineapple and papaya, we had lunch. Fortunately, the tour driver gave us bottled water and said not to drink anything in the village. It was hard to keep hydrated.
There was time to shop the wares of the villagers and hopefully buy something to take home while at the same time helping them. They price the baskets by how many days, by candlelight, it takes to weave them. One dollar per day. I purchased three baskets, each from a different family, the largest at about 12" was $25. Can you even imagine?? They are beautifully made and designed. Each is different and depend on the skill of the weaver. Men do some carving and they also had beading pieces but the baskets are the stars.
By this time, we are hot and sweaty and tired. Surprisingly the natives are not. They say now the rains are coming and we have been told to respond when we hear this as flooding can occur or mud slides, we cannot delay. The climb down the hill again, many struggle more now that it is even hotter. The ride in the dugout is welcome for the air that moves and cools us a bit. Up the hill at the landing and too the cool bus….ahhhh.
Our return was broken up by a quick stop at a grocery to purchase drinks and snacks welcome after the fairly skimpy lunch. The cold Panama beer for $.75 tasted great!!
Back aboard we showered off the mud and sweat and stayed in for the night. This new room service is great as we ordered a dish from the specialty restaurant with salad and drinks and ate in our pajamas again. We are really using the variety of meal options.
Now to get my day going before George returns from pickleball. They have formed a group and have enjoyed playing, even in this heat, which is amazing to me.
