Panama

Today we are crossing in the Panama canal. Old locks. Currently we are in the Milleflores lake then into Gatun lake before entering the second set of locks to the Gulf. Last time we did this we were in the new locks so it is interesting to see the difference. We have just been passed by a container ship on the new lock side.

Yesterday we docked at the new dock in Panama. Last trip we tendered in to the marina area. They had shuttles taking us to a hotel meeting space. Unfortunately for us it was a 20 minute walk BACK to the catamaran we had booked. It was called the Red Cat for obvious reasons. A nice thing here in Panama is that they treat the seniors very nicely with discounts on many things. They escorted us onto the cat first so we had seats in the shade. That was a nice perk!

We sailed and motored around the many ships waiting to enter the canal. Some wait weeks for their turn. It costs about $500,000. for our ship to go and cruise ships have preference.

Near the island of Taboga we anchored for a while for a bit of swimming. Many dove off the boat into the cool water. We didn't. Then we sailed around to the other side and the little town for everyone to get off for a beach day. We made a rookie decision to not wear our shoes so we couldn't walk very far on the very hot streets. What a stupid decision!! But we rented an umbrella and sat on the sand and went into the Pacific. Walking was impossible so we didn't go much further. Lunch was served with more drinks as we sailed away. Some young women on a girls trip were very interested in their hair extensions and makeup and spent about the entire time taking photos of themselves posing. Entertaining at least. It amused us as well as the French couple sitting with us. Many eye rolls!!

Everyone danced and had fun on the boat. What a nice day despite toasted feet!!

We'll spend the day doing this crossing then to Aruba tomorrow. Tonight we dine in the Pinnacle grill again...yum!!!!

Panama canal

We are just entering the first lock of the old set. There will be inches on either side. "Mules" or Small trains pull us through.  

We ate Panama buns in honor of the transit. It will take all day to enter the gulf.

Crossing the equator ceremony

Just silly fun!

Mantilla Beach

George walked to the end.

Manta Ecuador

A nicer view today.  Up at 5:30... breakfast came at 5:45!! Good thing I had clothes on!

It's hot already....and they say to wear long sleeves to protect from the sun. Good thing the bus has AC !!

Lunch by the sea

Ecuador

After nice sea days sailing from Lima, we docked in Manta, Ecuador for the day. Thinking beach time would be nice, I signed us up to take a tour to Manchilla National Park and a beautiful beach. Yes, the beach was beautiful, but it took a two hour ride in the bus to arrive for only a 40 minute stay. A lot of the drive was along the ocean with the beautiful vistas to see, then up across the mountains. We didn't change into our suits at the beach as the time was short but George was able to walk the beach as he loves to do as I sat under an umbrella, thankfully!!, enjoying the lovely view.

This country is the cleanest we have seen. They must sweep the streets and pick up garbage all the time as none is to be seen. At the beach they did not let us take any food, granola bars, or tissues on to the beach. None of us would give up the tissues so our bus driver kindly took them back to the bus to save them for us. It's key to always have tissues and hand cleaner with you, especially a woman!!

At the next stop there was a one room museum to peruse to see the old burial pots, and a couple of tables of crafts that looked imported to me. A trail let into the dry tropical forest. We went in a way then turned around. There was so much sand in our feet and shoes and it was very hot. So we sat and tried to clean the sand better then discovered the little restaurant. A beer was just the ticket to enjoy in the shade until the group returned to the bus.

At last we drove into the narrow drive to the hotel for lunch. It was situated on the side of the mountain overlooking the Pacific ocean with a lovely view. Our lunch was Ecuadorian food. A chicken empanada, fish, shrimp, calamari, Russian potato salad (peas and carrots not celery), vegetables, and rice. For dessert was blackberry ice cream and cake roll with spiced pineapple. It was all good. Smiles all around.

Our drive back was long and not as picturesque as it went through the mountainous country. It is green now from rain but will be dry and brown again. There is very little color anywhere with the houses build of cement or clay bricks and dull color, little paint. Dry clay yards, even the goats were dull color. I can see why bright colors in cloth is a favorite with such a lack of color in the landscape. One exception was the hotel which was bright yellow with blue trim..so nice to see. (the waiters were very formal in black and white and so nice)

We were able to see a statue created to honor the Panama hat makers. It was a woman bending over a partially woven hat, a pillow on the top and her breasts holding it all together as she bent and wove the brim. The hats are made here by a small group of artisans and NOT in Panama. They got the name when T. Roosevelt wore one when visiting Panama canal. The hats can take a year to weave and cost $500. for a fine one. A really fine hat can fit through a ring.

At the port there was a nice terminal building and a few handicraft stalls. Less expensive hats were flying off the rack and the jewelry and scarves & alpaca items as well. I purchased scarves and some necklaces made from the Taugua nut. The nuts are found only here and look like large Brazil nuts. They are ivory color. For jewelry the nut is dyed but they also carved animals in the natural form. The nuts were first used for making buttons for a French company who kept the source secret for many years. I told the young woman who was working with her mother making the jewelry to leave some undyed as they would be beautiful and ivory-like in that state.

A cool drink and a stint in the hot tub, conversation with Gs pickleball friends, then dinner and a show ended our day. I am always pooped and sleep really well on the ship. Now it's another sea day as we sail to Panama. We crossed the Equator while we slept so this morning there will be a ceremony to celebrate. The new crew members go through the ritual and kiss a fish, get covered in whipped cream and pushed into the pool. Great fun. I think we will get a certificate. It will match the one from 2012!!

keyboard is working today!! Yea!! George is playing pickleball while I blog and get organized for the day.

Foggy

I'm sitting in the Crows Nest, a lovely space on the top deck at the front of the ship. A bar with coffee and drinks, games, comfy chairs and tables. Puzzle tables and more. It's always busy.

Today they are blowing the horn every two minutes due to fog. I hope it clears up soon!

Finished one beaded bracelet and starting the second. Finishing them later.

This will be a low key day. Mariners lunch( for 3-5 star), pickleball, maybe swimming after and Lido supper. Tomorrow we have a very early start so we'll have to pack our day packs tonight.

Keeping up..

I added sketches to the journal book. Not great art but memories in ink.

Lima coastline

View from the cliff in Milleflores area 

Franciscan convent

A busy few days!!

 Grr, equipment fail!  My little.keyboard refused to connect so back to two fingers!

We docked at General Sam Martin pier for Pisco Peru. There was absolutely nothing at the pier but a few vendors in a tent!   The nearest town was Paracus and the focus of this port is the Nasca Lines. They required a long bus ride and flying over the marks in the earth.  Since they are not even always visible, we chose to visit the Ballasta islands via small boat from Paracus.  It was a mess at.the dock and a wait.in the hot sun but once aboard we enjoyed being close to the water and sea life. There were sea lions clinging to a channel marker, many birds, terns, pelicans and Humboldt penguins. Very tiny compared to those we have seen previously. We were able to see the Candelabra which is similar to the Nasca  lines from both the small boat.and the ship.

These islands are covered in white bird poop, guano. They stand out compared to the clay covered hills on land. The guano is a huge part of the export products for Peru. Every few years they collect tons of it from the islands and sell at great profit as natural fertilizer. This is collected by hand!!!!

After the boat ride we stayed in Paradise for a drink created with Pisco. Pisco is a brandy made from grapes and is a specialty in both Chile and Peru. We have had Pisco sours and like them.  With the drinks we munched cracked, roasted corn that looked like cow feed but tasted interesting. 

The following day we docked in Lima for two nights. Those going to Machu Pichu  left at the previous port and will return tomorrow night. A very quick, expensive trip!

Our choice was to do a tour of Lima with a guide. We.saw some.very very old contents with beautiful art and tile work, 1620. Also we walked to a main square to see the presidents house and government building. A visit to the gold museum was a reminder of the beautiful gold Peruvian objects we had seen before in Boca Raton.. What craftsmanship they displayed! I  loved some of the jewelry designs though not the huge ear plugs or nose ornaments.  Next was a quick visit to the Indian market where many many stalls held beautiful alpaca products and indigenous designs. It was too little time for me to choose anything so I held off purchasing anything. We had lunch consisting of several local dishes. I liked most of them but a few were not so good. Fish is the specialty here so it was served in many of the dishes.  And again a Pisco  sour!

It was a long day including over an hour each way on the bus. We struggled to understand our guide who was not exactly fluent in her English speech.  She also had a broken speech pattern with lots of eh, ums and broken sentences. Between trying to understand and following her around trying not to get lost it was exhausting.  To top it off this was palm Sunday and there were processions and services in the churches we visited. Interesting to see it all but difficult to wade through.

So. Room service and a quiet night finished our day.  Our balcony view doesn't invite Lou going out there this port!!

The following day we took the shuttle into the Millefores area where we walked to a.shopping center cut into the cliff. There were all the stores we have at home but with some very upscale neighbors.  The restaurants had spectacular views looking out to sea from up high.  Lima is developing the lower shore area and adding to the many sports areas there already. Millefores is the newer , upscale area in Lima which is a big contrast to the central old area, dirty and unkempt.

We taxied to the Indian market by George striking a deal with the driver. I purchased a few items after wandering around then we used Uber to get back to the shuttle bus stop. Lunch on the lido deck.was relaxing and quiet with many off touring. It was a nice day. 

Drinks in our favorite bar then dinner in the dining room with interesting couples followed by a folk show finished the day.

Now George is playing pickleball in a tournament after warming up this morning with a few games. I get myself organized and catch up with the blog.  I'll send more photos but can't jam it up with.too many too fast.  Next port is in  Ecuador.

Ballestas Islands

View from our balcony in Lima

Not every port is beautiful!! It's also noisy with beeping and bumping. A very busy port .

The other side of the ship wins this time!!

Ballestas islands.

Tiny penguins, big pelicans and colorful inca terns.  With sea lions too!

Lima

View from the cliff top

Pisco at Port General San Martin

A desert here.

Billboard on Board piano bar

Fwd: Veramonte

Fwd: Veramonte

Fwd: Santiago wineries in Casablanca Valley

Finally!!!

Santiago and Coquimbo

 At Santiago, Chile, we docked for some to leave the ship and some to board.  It is a very busy day.  I booked a tour to Casablanca wineries and it was a nice day to drive out of the city and into the valley areas.  We were able to see the vineyards as we drove as well as the distant mountains.  

The mountains were very similar to California in that they were dry and barren of trees for the most part.  There are some local varieties but not many. A palm tree grew here as well as eucalyptus bushes which were everywhere. 

We arrived at the Veramonte Vinyard first for a tasting and learning session.  The building was amazing and had spectacular views out to the vines below.  Our guide took us through the process of winemaking and out to the vines.  We tasted the grapes right from the vines, sweet and lovely.  I was surprised how small the grapes were.  We saw the vats and learned why each kind was used, including some amphora style for the vintners to experiment with in smaller batches.  Then upstairs to that beautiful table for tasting of three wines.  Two red and a Savignon Blanc.  We preferred the heartiest red and purchased a bottle.

Next we went to the El Cuadro winery which was huge and  obviously set up for events as well as wine.  We were seated at tables for lunch of sopapillas, a salad, a pork  dish and surprisingly a fruit salad for desert that looked like fruit coctail, incluuding the cherries.  Not the best ending!!!

During dinner we had local dancers entertaining us with folk dances.  It was interesting but not the dynamic group we had in Buenos Aires who were young and vibrant.  These were clearly seniors preserving the folk dances.  It was nice though.

Back on board we went aft to the deck and enjoyed the sunshine, ending up sitting with the couple we had lunched with.  George may be teaching him Pickleball today!

We had dinner in the dining room and met some more cruisers.  I am amazed at the travels these people do.  We look like hermits compared to some!!

The following day we docked at Coquimbo, Chile and our last port of this country.  I had decided we could get to La Serena, a neighboring town, on our own.  There were things to see and it is a seaside town.  In the dock area we tried to find a taxi that George thought charged a reasonable price to take u 4 miles. The one we found wanted $20.  No!   A little further on we met a German couple trying to do the same thing.  So we bargained again and agreed on $20. for all four of us.  Once we arrived at the plaza and got out of the taxi he wanted $20 from each couple...arguing did no good.  George was furious and we were disgusted but had little choice.

We had maps an tried to determine our route.  I had wanted to see the market area but should have talked to the port guide before venturing here.  It wasn't called market and we couldn't figure out where it was.  Few street signs didn't help either!  So we walked to the Japanese Garden where the Germans were headed.  

The garden was nice but not too large, but it did have banos!!  Now where?  After consulting the map we decided to walk to the beach which didn't seem that far away.  Ha!!  Fortunately my knee was fine today as we walked for a good 30 minutes toward the beach.  Finally we saw the monument and sand.  The beach is pebbles and water a bit chilly as it is fall here now.  Few were on the beach. We looked around and then decided not to hunt around this town any longer.  No taxis were in sight and tour guide said Uber was our best bet for a ride back to the ship.  George has set up an account but we had never used it before.  Not really the best time to try something new but we did.  Our driver arrived really fast, spoke no English and i thought the car was a little fragrant  with pot.  Just a whiff!  In any case, he drove along the shore which was a good view of the sea and got us to the ship in good time.

We had a nice late lunch on the aft deck  in the sunshine then took a nap!!

I will post photos separately as this is my kindle and photos are on the phone. I have to log on and off each one and it is a pain.  Right now is a very busy time for the internet.  We will be at sea for two days then to General Martin port in Peru. We stay in Peru for 3 days so some can go to Machu Pichu with HAl.   It is a very quick trip and it will be interesting to hear how they did acclimating to the air. It isn't enough time.   We'll be doing some tours and shopping during that time.

Petrohue

Sunrise over Chile today

Another lovely day begins.

We've met such nice people from all over the world!  And they do live to travel!!

Lunch in Puerto Varas

Sun!!!!

Enjoying the deck finally!

Puerto Montt

Despite the gloomy weather it was a nice day touring the area beyond the port.  We left very early to visit the park around the river and volcano.  The boat ride on the lake was peaceful although the emerald green of the lake was not visible in the cloudy day.  Volcanic land was all around the lake in various forms.  The waterfalls that we could see on the mountains weren't running with water due to this being late in the season.

We went from there to the falls area down the river.  The falls were beautiful and the green of the water was visible in the pools. Rough, volcanic rock formed the canyons and fall spillways.  

Next stop was the small city of Puerto  Varas and lunch at one of the hotels there.  One of the important industries here which sustains many people is Atlantic salmon farming.  So consequntly, our lunch was salmo.  First a Pisco sour..a drink made with Pisco, lemon juice and some sugar.  It is a taste to get used to but good.  I plan to bring

 some of the liquor home to try again.

it was accompanied by sopapillas and a sauce. They were good but G didn't like the sauce.  Then a vegetable soup that seemed to be squash, very good. Salmon, potatoes and veggies was the main course accompanied by carmenre (sp) wine.  Dessert was a cheesecake with the local berries similar to raspberries.  We enjoyed the conversation of tablemates as always.

When we arise so early to meet the tour and have a substantial lunch, we need a nap and light dinner on the lido deck.  Afterward we went to the show with the Step One dancers then played trivia with another couple.  Then bed!!

Today is Georges's 78th birthday.  I surprised him with gelli letters spelling out happy birthday on the bathroom mirror.  He was hoping they were edible!!

We received our bronze medals for 100days of sailing with HAL, gift coupons and another cupcake for George.  Tonight eat a lovely dinner in the Pinnacle Grill to finish the day. 

Tomorrow another tour...winery in Cassablanca, Chile.

Special things

I just looked at what I was wearing. Hand wrought earrings from Ireland, hand made necklace from New Zealand and a  hand woven silk scarf from Florence. I love to purchase these special things when I travel and remember the wonderful adventures.

All perfect with a reversible sweater gifted by Karen and Steve.

Sailing through the Straights of Darwin on our way to Puerto Montt Chile.

Patagonia

 We have been in Patagonia since the Falklands. It covers the southern area of both Argentina and Chile.

From desert to glaciers, this is  dramatically beautiful country.

Glacier and me on the balcony

Leaving the glacier

BRrrrr....

Pio XI glacier

 We are cruising the Wide Channel fjord up to the world's largest moving glacier. Well also go by Isla Saumarez.

The weather is cloudy and misty so we're going slowly.  We should be able to see it from our balcony but will go to the bow when it opens.

Batten down!!

 The seas are getting rough as we sail out of the channel on our way to Puerto Montt. Big rollers and white caps and it will get worse during the expected storm.

We have Bonine but rarely need it.

End of the world

At the end of the continent

 From Punta Aranas we sailed to Ushuaia along the Beagle Channel and did not go around the horn.  Various reasons were given for the changes plus the sea is rough there now.  Our sail has been pretty smooth for the most part while on the Atlantic.  Now that we are wending our way through the many islands here it is quiet.  The captain has to be very careful to stay in the channels as we go. Today we are sailing the Sarmiento Channel.

Yesterday was a very long day with the very early sail along the glaciers.  We saw the sun rise against the mountains and glisten off the ice.  Whales swam and spouted as we passed them.

After an early lunch we boarded the bus for the tour to Terre del Fuego.  It was grey and a little sprinkley out but that didn't hurt the views.  The many islands and mountains were scenic and I could imagine the native people living in the valleys.  What is hard to believe is that they wore no clothing other than a bit of leather at their privates. BRRR.  They did use fire and had shelters.  Even in their bark boats they had a little fire tended by the children.

We visited a couple lakes in the park as well.

A highlight was seeing the end of the Pan-American highway 3.

We had dinner and met more interesting people as well as a lady from the Netherlands who is very well traveled and interesting. A little difficult to understand her but I like talking with her.  This was the second time we sat with her in a random event.

Now we have three days of scenic cruising and I hope also to catch up on my sketch book.  We found a new cozy bar last night called the gallery bar and the walls are filled with nice artwork and there are games like skeeball to play.  A old time looking area....who knew.

Otherwise the art gallery has the usual awful artwork they are trying to sell.  Who buys this stuff.  On the other hand the HAL collection is varied and interesting.

And we're off to brunch after a very slow start to the day.

Terra del Fuego the end of the continent

We spent the day seeing beautiful scenery.

This is the park near Ushaia, the southernmost city in the world.

Beagle Channel

Good thing we had a nice rest as the captain woke us up at 6:30 am to see the glaciers as we sailed very slowly through the Beagle Channel toward Ushaia. Pictured is the Italia glacier, the largest we saw.  This was a beautiful sail between high mountains with the sun rising to light the scene.  We sat in the crows nest, a lounge at the bow of the ship on the highest deck.  It's a wonderful feature of the Holland ships.  Eventually the captain opened the bow on 4 for viewing but as it is very cold and windy there, we stayed put.

There were some whales spouting and seals cavorting in the water as we sailed.  How lucky are we to be able to make these memories.

This afternoon we will take a tour from Ushaia to Tierra del Fuego and the end of the Pan-American highway.  Henry, we'll think of you and your youthful adventure to this same place!!

Marta Island

Sea lions by the sea and penguins at the very top.

Ilsa Magdellena

Today we took a boat to the islands in the straights of Magellan to see more penguins.  We met the group in the town of Punta Arenas and had a chance to walk around a little bit then the bus took us through the city and to the dock.  

Aboard the boat we met a couple who had just picked up a motor home and were starting their drive up to Buenos Aires.  They are from Wisconsin and have already had a few adventures with the language and currency. He was a truck driver and had many stories but hadn't cruised so we spent the time exchanging information and adventures.  We spent the whole day with them.

This island was similar to the Falklands but the penguins were scattered around sitting near their burrows.  They didn't do much but sit and molt!!

And yes, we have the right clothes.  Many layers and we wear them all for these trips and are happy to have them.  The sun is warm but the wind is cold and relentless.

We left this island and drew up to Marta Island but did not land.  It was covered in sea lions.  They were also swimming and cavorting in the water.  There were some penguins high up on the rocks.  Since the sea lions feed on penguins it was a good idea to get far away from the chubby creatures.

Upon returning we grabbed nachos and drinks and went to the room.  I've developed a cold and jus wanted to rest to try and kick it.  Made myself a hot toddy which always helps.  We skipped dinner and watched a silly movie but the extra rest helped me to feel better this morning.

I'll post a few more photos from today.

Largest glacier in Beagle Channel

Sailing from Puerta Aranus to Ushaia

Falkland Islands-Port Stanley

 The Oosterdam had great fortune this season with being able to anchor and tender passengers to the island.  Many times ships cannot do this and this ship has done it every time this season.  

The island itself is very barren and one wonders what the attraction was to the place.  Evidently years ago there were cattle roaming and offered meat and hides to anyone landing or living there.  The terrain is bumpy and rocky with peat like ground around the shore.  No trees and little greenery except in yards.

We were interested in the penguins of which there are about a million compared to about 3000 people living there. It only took about a half hour to arrive at Bluff point where a privately owned rookery is established.  We watched the penguins and enjoyed their antics.  The little brown ones were the late bloomers which the adults are trying to get to the stage that they can leave home.

Hot beverages and pastries were served and welcome as the wind was fierce and blew constantly.  I had on jeans with leggings underneath, at long sleeve T-shirt, a sweatshirt, a insulated vest and a rain coat.  hat, gloves, and sox with sturdy shoes. I was warm but my face got wind burn!!

Before boarding the tender we visited their museum which was very interesting and varied.  The town wasn't very large and easily walked.  We found a pub, Globe, and had a pint and a plate of fish and chips to share.  The fish was local and very fresh.

After a nice dinner we listened to the piano player for a while then hit the hay.  We're not night owls nor are many aboard, especially after a tour day.

Tomorrow we visit Ilsa Magdelena to see more penguins via a boat.  it will be cold and a tight schedule.  The following day we visit Ushuaia and a park to the end of the continent. I'm looking forward to the days despite the need for layers of clothes!!

Bluff Point Falklands island

Port Stanley

A little pub for fish and chips 

Dinner in Caneletto restaurant

Ossi buco and risotto was delicious!  Way too much to finish though.

Map of first cruise segment

Artwork I like

Very large.. 24x36. Charcoal

Practice

Sketching gesture drawings in the lounge as we sail south toward Falklands.

Clever towel creations

And the birthday surprises keep appearing!....actual birthday is March 18!!!

A birthday surprise for George!

A little bit early but how nice!!!

Dancers

Dancers and drumming with boleros to finish.  After we tasted matte, a herb tea. It was sweet, not awful, but I'll stick with coffee!!

A nap made the bus ride go fast. We missed muster but sailed away.

Another Gaucho and tango show finished the evening....oh, and ice cream on our balcony!!!!

A hearty meal...

We were served salad and rolls with delicious wine as well as other drinks. Then came the meats ...chorizo, steak,chicken and ribs!!!  Homemade ice cream with strawberry topped it off

.

A peak at the old house